Killer Duck Blinds On A Budget
DuckBuckGoose - PHJ ProStaff - Cincinnati, OH
Duck Blinds can range from super-simple quick setups to permanent structure that house heaters, stoves, televisions and many of the comforts of home. But the good news is, you can kill ducks equally well with either type of blind. Some of my most successful duck hunts were out of a makeshift blind made from natural cover and a little ingenuity, just minutes before sunrise. If you would like to save a little money on a blind without giving up good concealment, consider the following budget duck blind tips.
The Backpacker’s Blind:
Next find some portable blind material and load up on a dozen or more heavy-duty clothes pins (or similar clips which might be suitable for attaching your blind material to the tent poles or other naturally occurring cover.)
Finally pack some twine or light rope and few tent stakes. You’ll be surprised at how quickly and creatively you’ll be able to set up an effective blind with just these simple, lightweight and backpack friendly materials.
Boat Blind Material “Quick Snap” Set Up:
Buy several feet of 1/2 inch, black irrigation pipe from your local hardware store. Then cut the pipe into 8-10 inch sections and cut it lengthwise down one side of the pipe, so you can pull it open like a hot dog bun. You’ll find that these sections will pull apart, but keep enough tension to fit snugly over the blind material and the gunwale of almost any duck boat — making it a “snap” to attach blind material to the sides of the boat.
Outfit Your Outboard:
Christmas Tree Camo:
If the color isn’t quite right, you can easily spray paint them with a flat paint to match your desired shade. Don’t buy a new tree. It’s surprisingly easy to find artificial trees anytime of year at garage sales, and on local buy/sell websites like CraigsList.com.
The “Finisher” Fence:
Simply take the fencing material and staple it to four or five light wooden rods, leaving room at the bottom of the rods to drive into the ground. Then weave some wild grasses, through the holes in the fencing and “stubble” it with a little extra local vegetation when you get to your hunting spot.
When you’re done with your hunt, simply roll up and store it in your boat or vehicle — then follow the birds to your next honey hole.
Outrigger Canoe Blind:
Here are some very general directions for how to build one. It may take some creative engineering on your part to make it work for your specific needs and canoe type.
First take 8” or larger diameter PVC pipe and cut two sections long enough to be a sound outrigger for each side of your canoe. I would recommend making them at least 5 feet long. Then glue pvc caps on the ends of the pipe to create two completely waterproof “pontoons”.
Next take some large copper piping or similar material that will be strong enough to create a brace that extends over, and attaches to the top of the canoe and onto the pontoons on either end. Calculate where the pontoons will need to set in relation to the canoe’s waterline to work effectively when on the water. Make sure that the pontoons won’t ride too high and hang above the water, or too low in the water where they would create too much drag or want to “submarine” when under way. This is an important step; so take some time to get it right.
Once you figure that out, put a 90 degree elbow down from your outrigger arms to the desired height of the of the pontoon. Then devise a way to attach the pontoons to the outrigger arms. There are many ways to do this. When we did it, we used huge hose clamps that wrapped completely around the pontoons and held them to a bracket mounted to the outrigger arms.
Next spray paint the whole rig with a flat camo paint that either matches the predominant backdrop vegetation or the typical water color.
Now you’ll need to devise a way to temporarily but solidly mount the outrigger arms to the canoe. We drilled holes in strategic places through the copper piping that lined up with the oarlock holes on our canoe (in four separate places…we have a large canoe). We then simply attached the outrigger rig to the canoe while on the shore by the water using long bolts with washers and nuts.
Finally we added camo netting across the top of the whole outrigger setup (and when mounted, across the middle of the top of the canoe). Not only did this work great for concealment, but also the military style netting we used is strong enough that it helps support and transport a decoy back or two on the way to and from the hunting spot.
If your canoe isn’t camo already, you can cover it quickly and easily with pre-cut blind material using the “quick snap” set up technique described earlier in the article.
Do you have other innovative duck blind plans or ideas?
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